selecting the right paint

selecting a manufacturer (Benjamin Moore; Sherwin Williams; Glidden, etc.)

selecting a line (Premium; Contractor; Economical, etc.)

thoughts on "one coat" paints

oil (alkyd) vs. water (latex) based paints

environmentally friendly paints (Low and No VOC, etc.)

full spectrum paints

choosing the right sheen (flat, eggshell, semi-gloss, gloss)

problems with coverage

do I need a primer?

how much paint do I need?

tips on purchasing paint

Below I go into detail on selecting a brand (Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, etc) and selecting the lines (ultra premium, premium, economical, contractor, etc). If you want to skip all of that, here is a short synopsis of what you should purchase. I recommend Benjamin Moore paint, so if you use them, purchase:

Ultra Flat Waterborne Ceiling Paint for all ceilings (less the bathroom ceilings)
Regal Select Eggshell for all of the walls and bathroom ceilings
Regal Select Pearl, or Advance Satin for your trim. Advance requires a little more finesse and takes 16 hours to dry before applying a second coat, but dries to a nicer, more durable finish than the Regal Select Pearl. The Pearl, however, is very forgiving (hard to mess up) and you can apply a second coat in as little as four hours

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If you choose a different brand (Behr, Sherwin Williams, Dunn Edwards, etc), and your budget will allow for it, choose only one of the best lines from that brand. Each brand will have a number of lines running from premium to economical. Do not purchase the economical or contractor lines.

For sheens, use:

ultra flat for the ceilings (less the bathroom ceilings where you should use an eggshell)
eggshell or satin (some brands call their eggshell "satin") for the walls
satin or semi-gloss for the trim

I only recommend using water (latex) based paints.

selecting a manufacturer (or brand)

The first thing you should do is select a manufacturer, or brand, like Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore.

If you don't have a specific brand in mind, choosing one can be a little daunting as there are varying differences in quality and price. If you do not have experience with various brands, here are a couple of things to keep in mind:

Asking for a recommendation is the easiest; people you trust, contractors you trust
If the paint is inexpensive, I would not recommend it, period; I have never, ever, had a good experience with cheap paint
It might just come down to convenience. A store that is close to you, or your exposure to brands you see in ads. Most popular brands will do a nice job for you
Consumer Reports or the like would be a good resource. Be careful about doing a search for the "best paints." You want information from sources that have experience and knowledge and are not just being compensated to mention certain brands
As I am particular with the brand that I use, the line (noted in the next section) is a much more important decision. Don't worry too much if you are limited to a certain brand because of your location, or proximity to that brand

Full disclosure and I am not being compensated to mention it, I use Benjamin Moore paints almost exclusively. Their Aura Interior and Regal Select Interior lines are some of the best products I've ever used. I use their Advance (in Satin and Semi-Gloss), or Regal Select (in the Pearl finish) for the trim, and their Ultra Flat Waterborne Ceiling Paint. This brand is on the higher end of the cost curve, but the ease of use, better coverage, ability to touch up easily, and the lovely finish it provides once dry, makes it well worth the price.

You may run across a few paints that are expensive ($100/gallon or more). Two that come to mind are Farrow and Ball, and Century by Benjamin Moore. Subjectively, I think these products are just too expensive. If you have never used Farrow and Ball, they recommend two coats of primer and two coats of finish. The finished product is amazing, but four coats of paint? And in my experience, as it is a beautiful product to work with, it does not cover as well as the price should suggest. This paint is made in England, using the finest ingredients, and the color palette is beautiful, but I have a hard time justifying the cost. Century is a newer line from Benjamin Moore; it's low sheen with superb durability and has a great color selection, but the price is also just too steep for me.

I highly recommend Benjamin Moore, but here are some other brands that I have used along with some recommendations on specific lines (please see the next section for information on lines). If I have not listed a brand, it's because I either have not heard of it or have not used it for a number of years. Paint manufacturers change their bases every few years, so I don't want to comment on something I have not used in a while.

Miller Paints: they are local to the Northwest, so I'm not sure of their reach. Interior, use the Evolution (their best), or the Super Premium.
Sherwin Williams: This brand has a lot of lines, I'd stick with the top 3 or 4. I've used Duration, Emerald and Cashmere and am a big fan of Super Paint. Super Paint is a great product at a reasonable price.
Pratt and Lambert: Accolade and Red Seal Supreme.
Behr: Marquee and Behr Premium Plus Ultra.
Kelly Moore: DuraPoxy
Farrow and Ball (see above): This brand does not have lines. All of their paints are high quality, you simply choose a sheen based on what you are painting. Farrow and Ball is expensive, over $100/gallon.
Valspar: Valspar sells their paint lines in different stores: Lowe's; Ace Hardware and at independent hardware stores. I only recommend the Signature line.
Dunn Edwards: I used this product once to paint my grandmother's place in San Fransisco. They do not sell it here in Washington. It was beautiful to work with and I used one of their best line, Everest.
C2: I have used the Luxe line and the Studio line. I recommend the Luxe line, it is their best.

selecting a line (premium, economical, contractor grade, etc)

Now for most brands, there are going to be a number of lines. They will run from the Premium to the Economical. As long as you purchase one of the best lines from the brand, you should be fine.

I do not recommend the economical or the contractor grades, so in this example I would not suggest the economical Ben line. These inexpensive lines will not cover as well, touch up as well, may not apply as smoothly, and will not look as nice, once dry, as a better quality paint.

Without getting too technical, another way to choose a line is to check the ingredients in the paint (you can search this online). The two things to look for are Titanium Dioxide pigments and high levels of solids in the paint.

According to the Paint Quality Institute, better pigments, used for color, like Titanium Dioxide, are good indicators of paint quality. Titanium dioxide is a white pigment with incredible opacity which helps with coverage.

Secondly, the higher the solid levels, the better; solid levels indicate the amount of product that remains on the wall once dry. Paints with 35-45% solid volume levels are considered “high-quality" paints, anything below 30% is considered “ordinary” paint.

Another thing to keep in mind is that a 100% Acrylic paint is of a higher quality than a Vinyl-Acrylic paint. I highly recommend using only 100% Acrylic paints.

Remember that with higher levels of these items, the more it costs to produce the paint, and the more expensive the paint will be. However, it’s important to note that high levels of solids produce a paint that goes on smoother, covers better, is more durable, and has better color retention. You are saving on the labor costs by doing it yourself, it’s important to spend a little more money on quality materials if it fits into your budget.

thoughts on "One Coat Paints"

Even the best paints rarely cover in one coat. It may look like it covers, but to achieve the true color, a second coat should be applied.

While I was putting this site together, I thought about how often a job covered in one coat, and I would say it happens about twenty percent of the time. I think it’s safe to say, if you just plan on two coats then you’ll never be disappointed.

oil (alkyd) vs. water (latex) base paint

oil (alkyd) based paints

Now let’s spend some time discussing the two main bases of paint; water, or latex, and oil, or alkyd. I will cover environmentally safe paints in a minute.

Let’s start with the oil.

First, the downfalls:

Oil paints are not as environmentally friendly as water-based paints.
Oils usually have an unpleasant odor and can take about 30-60 days, if not much longer, to completely off-gas, which is the complete evaporation of the chemicals and toxins in the paint.
Oils need about 24 hours to dry before applying a second coat, where with water-based you can apply a second coat in as little as four hours.
Lighter colors of oils, (especially off whites) in some instances, if not exposed to light, can darken up. If you have ever moved a piece of furniture, especially in an older house and noticed that the trim is darker or more yellow behind the furniture than the trim around it, that is what I am talking about.
Oil-based paints need to be cleaned with paint thinner or mineral spirits so now you'll be introducing another harmful product to the environment. And once you have cleaned up with paint thinner, it cannot be poured down the sink; it must be disposed of properly.
Finally, darker oil colors can fade more quickly over time.

Now before I completely talk you out of oil-based paints, there are two good reasons to use it.

The most important is durability. Water-based paints are much better than they used to be, but they are not as durable as oils.
The other advantage is the way an oil-based paint brushes on. It can be more forgiving than a lot of water paints as oils take longer to dry. Since oils take longer to dry, they have a tendency to level out or dry smoother, with less noticeable (not unnoticeable) brush marks.

Lately, there has been an introduction of what are called hybrid paints, in which an oil based paint is suspended in water. The advantages here are that the hybrids have a lower odor, they dry faster, clean easier (water clean up), but are meant to give you the durability performance of the oil.

I use Advance which is Benjamin Moore's hybrid. As it's a great product and has better durability than most of the water-based selections, in my opinion, Advance still does not have the same level of durability, once dry, as Benjamin Moore's Alkyd (Oil) Satin Impervo.

Subjectively, if you have young children, pets, are pregnant, or planning on kids, you may want to avoid oil altogether because of the health risks. Also note, in the short term, oil based products can cause sore throats, headaches, and dizziness.

Ultimately, if you decide you would like to use oil-based paint, you should take some precautions.

Make sure you use a respirator (not a dust mask!) when painting. Keep a couple of windows cracked open and set up a fan for airflow.
You should also plan to be out of the room(s) for at least three or four days after the painting is done, ideally longer so it off-gasses substantially.

water (latex) based paints

Water-based, or latex paints, are what most people use today due to their lower odor, ease of cleanup and faster drying times. These days with people more environmentally conscience, almost all paint companies have what are called “Low,” “No," and, "Zero" VOC paints.

environmentally friendly paints-Low, No and Zero VOC paints

VOC or Volatile Organic Compounds are the gasses or toxins that are emitted from the paint during the application and drying process. The lower the VOC, the better it is for the environment and your health.

VOC levels below 50 grams per liter are considered “Low VOC."

VOC levels of under 5 grams per liter are considered “No VOC.”
"Zero VOC" paints are exactly that. Note here that sometimes when the tint(s) (colorant(s)) is (are) added, the VOC level may go up as some manufactures color tints are not Zero VOC. If it's important for you to use a true Zero VOC paint, ask the paint manufacturer if they use Zero VOC tints.

These paints have all the advantages of regular latex paints with fewer toxins.

Now just because the paint has a very low VOC level does not mean it does not have an odor, so do not be thrown if it smells. Some are plant-based and can really have a strong stench, but, again, they are still much safer for the environment and your health.

full spectrum paints

When you choose a paint color, for the most part, it will likely be mixed by using 3, 4 maybe 5 colorants, and then, most of the time, black, sometimes gray will be added to achieve the desired color. These colors, which are a majority of what you see in a paint store, I'm going to call "regular" paint colors. When you use a full spectrum paint, the colorants that are added include some of each of the color spectrum, i.e Red, Yellow, Orange, Green, Blue, Indigo and Violet and, most important, they do not include any black or gray.

So the question becomes, "why would I want to use a full spectrum paint?" When you paint a room, light reflects off of the wall color and those colors are reflected back into the room. When you use a full spectrum paint, because all of the color spectrum colors are coming off the wall, they have a tendency to provide a more cohesive relationship between the walls and the items in your room. It's a bit hard to explain without seeing it, but it really brings the wall color and room to life.

One thing to keep in mind is that a full spectrum paint will change throughout the course of the day due to the changes in natural and artificial light. Now a regular paint will also change, but not to the degree of a full spectrum color. The main word used to describe this change with a full spectrum paint is chameleon; if you are open to something new every time you enter the room, a full spectrum paint would be a great choice.

There is a good chance that many of you have not heard of a full spectrum paint. As it's a really interesting way to enhance a room, I think manufactures don't embrace it for a number of reasons:

Having to use at least 7 tints to create a color is going to be more expensive.
There is an argument to be made that using black helps with coverage. As this statement is true, every time I have used a full spectrum paint, I have never had a problem with coverage.
I believe the main reason is that manufacturers really don't want the color they have created to change too much once it's on the walls. By adding black and/or gray, light is absorbed into those tints causing a muddy kind of look. This can help keep the color consistent during different lighting scenarios.

On my end, using the word "full" should include at least some of all of the 7 spectrum colors, but you will run across paint manufactures who call their paints full spectrum, but they may not include every color of the spectrum.

So let's discuss some full spectrum paints. I'm going to start with what I consider to be paints that are truly full spectrum, i.e. they contain at least some of each of the colors from the color spectrum.

The first is Ellen Kennon. She has created a palette of colors where you can purchase paint chips and samples. She also does color consultations. She has a relationship with PPG, so you just pick your colors and she will call ahead to a PPG store near you and order the paint for you to pick up.
The second is Donald Kaufman (donaldkaufmancolor.com). Basically the same idea as Ellen; he has color cards, samples ("color test"), and even his own paint line. He also has set up a relationship with Benjamin Moore where he will send along the tints to you in a jar. You simply take the jar to a Benjamin Moore retail outlet and have them add the contents to a Regal Select paint.

Other manufacturers that have a "full spectrum" lines, but do not necessarily have at least some of each of the 7 color spectrums in their colors.

C2 calls their color line full spectrum, but not all of the colors contain at least some of each of the color spectrum colors. They do not add black or gray to their colors and they have 16 colorants at their disposal.
Benjamin Moore's "Color Stories" (the CSP colors) are labeled as full spectrum paints. According to BM's website, the colors contain between 5 and 7 colorants and no black.

choosing the right sheen for your project: Flat (Matte, Velvet); Eggshell (Satin, Pearl); Semi-Gloss; and Gloss

Sheens are defined by the glossiness of the paint. There are generally four categories of sheens, which vary depending on the manufacturer:

Flat, which I’m going to include Matte and Velvet
Eggshell, which I will include Satin and Pearl
Semi-Gloss
Gloss

There are a couple of things to keep in mind when choosing a sheen.

The lower the sheen, i.e. the flatter the paint, the less it will show imperfections in the walls or trim. However, flatter finishes are not as durable or as scrubbable as a higher sheen. They tend to mark easier and can be harder to clean.

Subjectively, even though not as durable, flatter sheens have a tendency to be more elegant and show their color better as artificial and natural light is absorbed more than a higher sheen paint (where the light actually reflects off the sheen).

Much darker colors if done in a flat sheen can mark easily and, in most cases, those marks cannot be cleaned off. The best way to check this is to purchase a quart of the exact paint and color you want to use, apply the paint, let it dry one day, then run your hand across the sample. You may notice very light white marks where you ran your hand across the sample. When you try to clean that mark off (best to use a lint-free rag and some warm water), there is a good chance it will not go away. The solution here is to use a higher sheen paint, or never touch the wall(s).

With much darker colors, I would not recommend a flat sheen unless you are really comfortable about not touching the walls, ever. In the photo below, we used a flat paint as the client wanted to minimize the amount of light that would reflect off the charcoal colored bump out. I painted this about 3 years ago and they have not touched it which is why it is holding up so well.

The Velvet and Matte sheens, which are a little shinier than a true flat, may hold up to a darker color better than a flat, but I would recommend purchasing a quart of the exact paint you're thinking of using and testing it first.

If you are worried about marking the walls, or you'd like a finish that will clean easier, it would be best to use an Eggshell, Satin, Pearl, Semi-Gloss or Gloss finish.

Flat, Matte and Velvet can be used on most walls, but I would suggest a higher sheen for bathrooms, kitchen, mud and laundry rooms.

The majority of my projects are done with a dead flat on the ceilings, except high moisture rooms like bathrooms and laundry rooms, where I use an eggshell finish; eggshell on all of the walls (for durability); and pearl, satin or semi-gloss for the trim.

choosing the right sheen for your ceilings

Less high moisture rooms like the bathroom or laundry room, every ceiling, even in the kitchen, should be painted with what’s called a “true” or “dead” flat paint. This means there is virtually no sheen and, hence, no light reflects back when you are looking at it.

As you come into a room with a shiny ceiling, the eye has a tendency to go straight towards the ceiling because there is light reflecting off of it. The problem here is the ceiling will be the first thing you look at or will be distracted by when you walk into the room and that is not what you want. The focus should be on the walls, not the ceiling.

Ceilings are also notorious for having imperfections and showing roller marks. Now it’s hard to completely solve these issues, but a dead flat paint will really help alleviate the problems.

For bathrooms, laundry rooms, or other rooms with high moisture content, I will use eggshell, sometimes semi-gloss, for the ceilings (and walls). These sheens will hold up much better to a higher moisture content than a flatter sheen.

choosing the right sheen for the walls

Eggshell these days is the finish of choice, at least with most of my clients, for the walls. Some paint manufacturers call their eggshell finish satin, while the pearl finish is usually a bit shinier.

Personally, for durability, eggshell is the one to go with for walls.

Flat, although providing an elegant look, can be hard to clean and may mark, so I usually recommend avoiding flat.

Now you could move up to matte or velvet, which will give you a little more durability, but in my experience, you still run the same risks as with the flat.

If you're keen on flat finishes, think about using flat for your lighter colors, and a higher sheen for your darker colors. If you are super comfortable about never touching the walls, ever, then a flat finish will work for all colors.

For bathrooms, kitchens, laundry, and mudrooms, paint them in an eggshell finish as it will hold up to moisture better than a flatter finish.

Semi-gloss and gloss finishes are too shiny in my opinion for the walls, but if you are thinking about using one of them, I would recommend applying a sample of the higher sheen paint before making the final decision.

choosing the right sheen for your trim

I like to use the next sheen up from the walls for the trim; usually pearl, satin or semi-gloss. Either of these three sheens will provide durability and washability.

If you use flat on the walls, I would not recommend an eggshell finish for the trim as it's just not quite shiny enough; it may not have the durability you need.

I rarely use gloss for the trim, it is just too much for my clients, however, it can be considered. Brand new trim prepped exceptionally well and sprayed with a high gloss paint could be quite dramatic.

final thoughts on sheens

Semi-gloss could be great for walls, trim and ceilings in rooms with lots of moisture like bathrooms and laundry rooms. It's also a great choice for the trim.

The only place I use high gloss is on doors, but it can make for an elegant look in certain situations (fireplace mantel, maybe an accent color on some ceiling cove trim). It can also add a stunning look to a room if done in a vibrant color.

problems with coverage

When using bright, intense colors like bright reds, yellows, and oranges, you may find that some manufacturers deep/neutral bases (the base that's used to create the wanted color), do not cover very well, at all. Some can take four or five coats to cover without a primer.

If you find that you will need a primer, check to see if the manufacturer has a primer meant for the finish color you are contemplating.

Another option is to use a gray pigmented primer (a primer tinted to a gray); it helps with the coverage.

If you are thinking about using an intense color, I would recommend buying a quart of the exact color, sheen, manufacturer, and line you are thinking about ultimately using and applying it in the room. Apply a sample or two to the walls and see how many coats it takes to completely cover the old color, then determine if you will need a primer or not.

It should be noted that I am going to go into a bit of a diatribe below about priming in these situations; because I use Benjamin Moore, I have never applied more than 3 coats (and applying 3 coats is exceedingly rare) to cover another color, any other color.

do I need a primer?

Okay, all apologies, but I'm going to rant here.

I'm asked all the time if a primer should be applied over an existing color before painting with the new color. If you buy decent quality paint, you should not need a primer. Now it might take three coats (let's pretend you're painting a new off-white over an existing dark blue), but applying three coats should be exceedingly rare.

The alternative is to buy a primer, apply one coat of primer, clean up the brushes and roller pads, set up with the finish color, and apply the finish color, which, btw, will take two coats (I'm annoyed just writing that sentence; imagine if I actually had to it ;-)).

I never use a primer when changing the color of a room from one color to another. A quality paint will cover, in most instances, in two coats. Don't let anyone talk you into priming if you are just changing colors! If you can't cover your old color in two, and in rare cases no more than three coats, switch your brand or your line!

Latex primers are needed over new drywall mud, spackle, and bare wood.

Stain-blocking primers will be needed for tannin bleed, surfactant bleed (if the surfactant cannot be cleaned off with a wet rag), indelible ink, smoke residue, etc.

how much paint do I need?

Generally, how much paint you will need can be determined by the square footage. Most paints will cover about 300-400 square feet per gallon, but this should be used just as a guideline.

Don’t be surprised if it varies depending on the porosity of the surface. In other words, if you have a wall with just one coat of existing paint on it, it will usually require more paint than a wall that has four coats of existing paint because the latter will be less porous. If your existing walls are done in a flat finish, they will take more paint than walls with an existing eggshell or semi-gloss finish. Also, if you have done any drywall or texturing work, it will take more paint, again, because the surface is more porous.

purchasing the paint

Now once you have decided on a manufacturer or brand, a line from that brand, the color (note the number and name), the sheen, and the number of gallons you will need, now it is time to order the paint.

Make notes of all of the information so it's easier to order when you call or visit the store.

A great way to order the paint from a specialized paint store like Sherwin Williams is to call in the order in advance. In some instances, the store will have a separate line for will call so you can bypass the people in the store who have not ordered their paint yet. Now this will not work for a large box store like Home Depot or Lowe's, or for some independent chains like Ace or True Value (although check, I've has some really good experiences with Ace and True Value), but don’t be afraid to call and see if you can order over the phone.

Now when you go to a specialty paint store, you will most likely be asked for your name, number and address as the store likes to keep records of your purchases in case you need more paint later on. At this time, if you do not have an account with the store, ask for some kind of discount. They should at least give you something off full retail; now this will not work at Home Depot or Lowe's, but it never hurts to ask.

If you know an interior designer, a contractor or architect who has an account at a paint store, you should check and see if you could use their account to get a discount.

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selecting the right paint

Ultra Flat Waterborne Ceiling Paint for all ceilings (less the bathroom ceilings)

Regal Select Eggshell for all of the walls and bathroom ceilings

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If you choose a different brand (Behr, Sherwin Williams, Dunn Edwards, etc), and your budget will allow for it, choose only one of the best lines from that brand. Each brand will have a number of lines running from premium to economical. Do not purchase the economical or contractor lines.

For sheens, use:

ultra flat for the ceilings (less the bathroom ceilings where you should use an eggshell)

eggshell or satin (some brands call their eggshell "satin") for the walls

satin or semi-gloss for the trim

I only recommend using water (latex) based paints.

selecting a manufacturer (or brand)

The first thing you should do is select a manufacturer, or brand, like Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore.

If you don't have a specific brand in mind, choosing one can be a little daunting as there are varying differences in quality and price. If you do not have experience with various brands, here are a couple of things to keep in mind:

Asking for a recommendation is the easiest; people you trust, contractors you trust

If the paint is inexpensive, I would not recommend it, period; I have never, ever, had a good experience with cheap paint

It might just come down to convenience. A store that is close to you, or your exposure to brands you see in ads. Most popular brands will do a nice job for you

Consumer Reports or the like would be a good resource. Be careful about doing a search for the "best paints." You want information from sources that have experience and knowledge and are not just being compensated to mention certain brands

As I am particular with the brand that I use, the line (noted in the next section) is a much more important decision. Don't worry too much if you are limited to a certain brand because of your location, or proximity to that brand

Miller Paints: they are local to the Northwest, so I'm not sure of their reach. Interior, use the Evolution (their best), or the Super Premium.

Sherwin Williams: This brand has a lot of lines, I'd stick with the top 3 or 4. I've used Duration, Emerald and Cashmere and am a big fan of Super Paint. Super Paint is a great product at a reasonable price.

Pratt and Lambert: Accolade and Red Seal Supreme.

Behr: Marquee and Behr Premium Plus Ultra.

Kelly Moore: DuraPoxy

Farrow and Ball (see above): This brand does not have lines. All of their paints are high quality, you simply choose a sheen based on what you are painting. Farrow and Ball is expensive, over $100/gallon.

Valspar: Valspar sells their paint lines in different stores: Lowe's; Ace Hardware and at independent hardware stores. I only recommend the Signature line.

Dunn Edwards: I used this product once to paint my grandmother's place in San Fransisco. They do not sell it here in Washington. It was beautiful to work with and I used one of their best line, Everest.

C2: I have used the Luxe line and the Studio line. I recommend the Luxe line, it is their best.

selecting a line (premium, economical, contractor grade, etc)

Now for most brands, there are going to be a number of lines. They will run from the Premium to the Economical. As long as you purchase one of the best lines from the brand, you should be fine.

I do not recommend the economical or the contractor grades, so in this example I would not suggest the economical Ben line. These inexpensive lines will not cover as well, touch up as well, may not apply as smoothly, and will not look as nice, once dry, as a better quality paint.

Without getting too technical, another way to choose a line is to check the ingredients in the paint (you can search this online). The two things to look for are Titanium Dioxide pigments and high levels of solids in the paint.

According to the Paint Quality Institute, better pigments, used for color, like Titanium Dioxide, are good indicators of paint quality. Titanium dioxide is a white pigment with incredible opacity which helps with coverage.

Secondly, the higher the solid levels, the better; solid levels indicate the amount of product that remains on the wall once dry. Paints with 35-45% solid volume levels are considered “high-quality" paints, anything below 30% is considered “ordinary” paint.

Another thing to keep in mind is that a 100% Acrylic paint is of a higher quality than a Vinyl-Acrylic paint. I highly recommend using only 100% Acrylic paints.

thoughts on "One Coat Paints"

Even the best paints rarely cover in one coat. It may look like it covers, but to achieve the true color, a second coat should be applied.

While I was putting this site together, I thought about how often a job covered in one coat, and I would say it happens about twenty percent of the time. I think it’s safe to say, if you just plan on two coats then you’ll never be disappointed.

oil (alkyd) vs. water (latex) base paint

oil (alkyd) based paints

Now let’s spend some time discussing the two main bases of paint; water, or latex, and oil, or alkyd. I will cover environmentally safe paints in a minute.

Let’s start with the oil.

First, the downfalls:

Oil paints are not as environmentally friendly as water-based paints.

Oils usually have an unpleasant odor and can take about 30-60 days, if not much longer, to completely off-gas, which is the complete evaporation of the chemicals and toxins in the paint.

Oils need about 24 hours to dry before applying a second coat, where with water-based you can apply a second coat in as little as four hours.

Oil-based paints need to be cleaned with paint thinner or mineral spirits so now you'll be introducing another harmful product to the environment. And once you have cleaned up with paint thinner, it cannot be poured down the sink; it must be disposed of properly.

Finally, darker oil colors can fade more quickly over time.

Now before I completely talk you out of oil-based paints, there are two good reasons to use it.

The most important is durability. Water-based paints are much better than they used to be, but they are not as durable as oils.

The other advantage is the way an oil-based paint brushes on. It can be more forgiving than a lot of water paints as oils take longer to dry. Since oils take longer to dry, they have a tendency to level out or dry smoother, with less noticeable (not unnoticeable) brush marks.

Lately, there has been an introduction of what are called hybrid paints, in which an oil based paint is suspended in water. The advantages here are that the hybrids have a lower odor, they dry faster, clean easier (water clean up), but are meant to give you the durability performance of the oil.

I use Advance which is Benjamin Moore's hybrid. As it's a great product and has better durability than most of the water-based selections, in my opinion, Advance still does not have the same level of durability, once dry, as Benjamin Moore's Alkyd (Oil) Satin Impervo.

Subjectively, if you have young children, pets, are pregnant, or planning on kids, you may want to avoid oil altogether because of the health risks. Also note, in the short term, oil based products can cause sore throats, headaches, and dizziness.

Ultimately, if you decide you would like to use oil-based paint, you should take some precautions.

Make sure you use a respirator (not a dust mask!) when painting. Keep a couple of windows cracked open and set up a fan for airflow.

You should also plan to be out of the room(s) for at least three or four days after the painting is done, ideally longer so it off-gasses substantially.

water (latex) based paints

Water-based, or latex paints, are what most people use today due to their lower odor, ease of cleanup and faster drying times. These days with people more environmentally conscience, almost all paint companies have what are called “Low,” “No," and, "Zero" VOC paints.

environmentally friendly paints-Low, No and Zero VOC paints

VOC or Volatile Organic Compounds are the gasses or toxins that are emitted from the paint during the application and drying process. The lower the VOC, the better it is for the environment and your health.

VOC levels below 50 grams per liter are considered “Low VOC."

VOC levels of under 5 grams per liter are considered “No VOC.”

"Zero VOC" paints are exactly that. Note here that sometimes when the tint(s) (colorant(s)) is (are) added, the VOC level may go up as some manufactures color tints are not Zero VOC. If it's important for you to use a true Zero VOC paint, ask the paint manufacturer if they use Zero VOC tints.

These paints have all the advantages of regular latex paints with fewer toxins.

Now just because the paint has a very low VOC level does not mean it does not have an odor, so do not be thrown if it smells. Some are plant-based and can really have a strong stench, but, again, they are still much safer for the environment and your health.

full spectrum paints

There is a good chance that many of you have not heard of a full spectrum paint. As it's a really interesting way to enhance a room, I think manufactures don't embrace it for a number of reasons:

Having to use at least 7 tints to create a color is going to be more expensive.

There is an argument to be made that using black helps with coverage. As this statement is true, every time I have used a full spectrum paint, I have never had a problem with coverage.

On my end, using the word "full" should include at least some of all of the 7 spectrum colors, but you will run across paint manufactures who call their paints full spectrum, but they may not include every color of the spectrum.

So let's discuss some full spectrum paints. I'm going to start with what I consider to be paints that are truly full spectrum, i.e. they contain at least some of each of the colors from the color spectrum.

The first is Ellen Kennon. She has created a palette of colors where you can purchase paint chips and samples. She also does color consultations. She has a relationship with PPG, so you just pick your colors and she will call ahead to a PPG store near you and order the paint for you to pick up.

Other manufacturers that have a "full spectrum" lines, but do not necessarily have at least some of each of the 7 color spectrums in their colors.

C2 calls their color line full spectrum, but not all of the colors contain at least some of each of the color spectrum colors. They do not add black or gray to their colors and they have 16 colorants at their disposal.

Benjamin Moore's "Color Stories" (the CSP colors) are labeled as full spectrum paints. According to BM's website, the colors contain between 5 and 7 colorants and no black.

choosing the right sheen for your project: Flat (Matte, Velvet); Eggshell (Satin, Pearl); Semi-Gloss; and Gloss

Sheens are defined by the glossiness of the paint. There are generally four categories of sheens, which vary depending on the manufacturer:

Flat, which I’m going to include Matte and Velvet

Eggshell, which I will include Satin and Pearl

Semi-Gloss